I would be lying if I said I slept well. Owls woke me at 4am followed by Nellie the cow mooing through my window from the field at 6am. That’s country living. A glance outside reveals a low thick haze and it isn’t clear which way the weather is going to go.
Around the breakfast table Nigel and I are joined by Bob, also walking the Cleveland Way. Robin has been up since 6am tending the livestock but he had found time to cook breakfast for us on the Aga. As I’m last to arrive I get everything that nobody else has had – 2 sausages, 2 large black pudding slices, 2 rashers of bacon, 2 eggs and some mushrooms. My face says it all and everyone else thinks it’s funny. When I finish the lot they are no longer laughing and we are all equally surprised, but with such superlative quality local produce I’ve no regrets.
This is day 4 of the walk and I’m the lightweight with a mere 9 miles to walk to Kildale. Bob has 14 miles to Guisborough and Nigel is yomping an improbable 24 miles to Saltburn. In my defence I’m lugging my rucksack around while Sherpa Vans are shifting Bobs bag and Nigel’s wife is driving the “support car” and picking his bag up.
Robin gives us all a lift up to the trail in his twin-cab pickup. I had considered walking but this is a dull 3 mile section, plus I would have been spilt up from the others.
Nigel forges ahead. He has a long day ahead not helped by the fact he chatted with Robin until midnight, who plied him with two fingers of whisky. My kind of B&B!
Bob and I climb the path more sedately and the sun is soon winning the battle against the fog.
This section of the trail stays high and we have enough of a view to enjoy without really seeing anything in detail. The way is level and makes for a comfortable walk. There are clues to former quarrying – there be iron in these hills – none more so than the flat straight section of path formerly employed as a steam railway for shifting the ore.
There are few landmarks as such but Round Hill stands out (literally) as at 454m it is the highest point on the moors apparently. If I was walking alone I would be stopping regularly for a break but when you are enjoying conversation with a fellow walker you just keep walking. And so it is that at 12:30 I arrive at my destination Kildale camping barn and Bob goes his separate way. The sun reigns unopposed now and it’s great to know that I can now relax, read and perhaps write another blog.
My welcome is nothing but effusive. The owners are painting the farmhouse so their sweet dog, starved of attention, is desperate to play. I oblige with some Olympian stroking. It’s amusing when the onlooking cat butts in to jealously demand equal belly stroking rights.
Kildale barn – part of Park Farm – is a hidden gem. It lies just strides off the trail and commands sublime views plus the renovated buildings are full of character. Most astonishing is my personal accommodation. Because I’m early I can choose a private “barn apartment” instead of the larger communal barn. What an incredible room, with kettle microwave and radio – and for just £8 per night!
After a shower I sit on a bench in the sun watching farm vehicles bailing hay when a lady leaving the campsite generously gives me an icy can of lager surplus to her requirements. We chat awhile and she describes what a relaxing visit she has enjoyed, which seems entirely plausible.
On day two I didn’t want to walk a step further than necessary but by now a 6 mile round trip to the Dudley Arms in Ingleby Greenhow doesn’t concern me at all.
At the end of the pleasant pastoral walk a tiny butchers has an adorable selection of savoury pastry products but my catering is already all mapped out and I can’t think of a way to squeeze in an extra meal. The pub isn’t open yet and as I wait three young guys pull up on old bikes. They are doing a cycling pub crawl and this final stop is their fifth pub of the day. None of them are really cyclists and it’s clear they are just having a whole lot of silly fun.
We must all look like alcoholics as we pile through the doors when they are unlocked. Their WiFi is non-functioning and the food
distinctly forgettable but the ale is OK. I’m careful to leave while there is daylight and by now there’s a cutting chill in the air that demands an extra layer.
On my return there’s warming news with the belated arrival of my new cheapy camera. The irony is that with no little effort I have been pulling some acceptable pictures out of my poor quality camera phone. As I settle in for the night little do I realise that tomorrow would not be a day for taking photos…
Here’s today’s walk in point form…
In a nutshell
A short level march in clearing mist, reaching Kildale early afternoon
Arrival of new camera
No WiFi in pub so no blogging
Rain is forecast tomorrow and it’s going to be a tougher walk
|Stage||4 – Chop Gate to Kildale|
|Distance||11.6 miles||Speed||3.7 mph|
…and the route taken…