Explorer Belt Day 5 – Saou to Dieulefit

Photo 1 - Eglise St Roch
In 1984 as a 15 year old Venture Scout I embarked on a 10 day Explorer Belt hike around the alpine region of South France. In this series of blog posts I revisit my diaries and retrace those footsteps…
My diary entry

Friday 17th August 1984

Awoke in a dry antless tent for once. Ryvita for breakfast after the usual washing ritual. Walked into Saou and took photo of church. Bought coke and cake. Walked 10km to Bourdeaux. Waited there for a bit and then walked a wicked 13km to Dieulfit in hot weather. Above 80 degrees as always. Exhausted so camped at a good site and watched nearby tennis at a tennis club. Very hot. Had ravioli, mash and French bread to eat. Was best meal yet.

Blisters accumulating on right heel. Walked around Dieulfit. Probably best day yet. Locals even play boules at night (saw some at 2am) for god knows what reason. Nice town, larger for the area in terms of population and size. Got to bed at 10:30

On this day:

  • Film Tightrope released, produced and starring Clint Eastwood

Looking back…

Did I really subsist on coke and cake?! I recall those iconic vintage tinted green curvy coke bottles that were sold all over the region out of red plastic crates. Back home it was all (now also classic) red and white cans.

Our food for the most part was dry in order to save weight. I have barely eaten ryvita since 1984 but it served the purpose at the time. Evening meals were mostly dry trekking packs which we poured into an aluminium pan and rehydrated with water before boiling over the meths fuelled trangia stove.

Some of the recipes sounded quite exotic and I remember thinking they tasted good although back then I also thought biscuits and coke tasted good. What an evening meal – carbs, carbs and more carbs! We were burning them off for sure.

It’s likely I was taking photos of churches in aid of one of our EB projects. In a sense that’s a shame because with a maximum of 36 photos to play with over my 3 weeks in France (!) it would have been better to capture more images of Andy, myself and the dramatic landscape. Anyway, here it is…

Photo 1 - Eglise St Roch
Photo 1 – Eglise St Roch
Rediscovering this photo on street-view was simple enough…
Modern re-creation in street view

It really was extremely hot and we were paying insufficient respect to the advice not to walk during the hottest part of the day. Was it any wonder we were both suffering with blisters? A 23km walk in relatively new walking boots, mostly along firm roads, carrying over-packed rucksacks was always likely to spell trouble in such circumstances.

Dieulefit was a dreamily pretty little town – the kind of place you might consider if looking to move and live in France. It is easy to bemoan a lack of photos or description in my accounts but we didn’t have that much time to explore each day, what with the walking, finding somewhere to camp, pitching up, cooking and washing up.

Ramshackle charm of Dieulefit

The tennis courts adjoined our campsite and it was fun watching club players compete to an entertaining standard. We saw lots of tennis courts during our hike. At least anything seems like lots when you almost never see one in Britain. Also there were numerous table tennis tables in people’s front yards.

Since I went to bed at 10:30 how did I know they were playing boules at 2am? Perhaps they were playing in the campsite and I visited the bathroom in the night? There are some mysteries that can’t be unravelled.

Map
In the absence of our original maps I have deduced the following route…

Distance walked: 14.1 miles (22.5 km)

 Key:
Start Saou
Via Bourdeaux
End Dieulefit
Photo 1 Street view of Photo 1 – Eglise St Roch
Tennis club Tennis Club du Jabron
Overnight Camping at Le Domaine des Grand Pres

Explorer Belt Day 4 – Beaufort to Saou

Photo 2 - Eglise Square

 

In 1984 as a 15 year old Venture Scout I embarked on a 10 day Explorer Belt hike around the alpine region of South France. In this series of blog posts I revisit my diaries and retrace those footsteps…
My diary entry

Thursday 16th August 1984

Got up at 7am. Washed feet in river. Ate ryvita with paste and drank orange juice. Hung out tent to dry on some football posts. Said goodbye to our hosts and when all was packed we left and walked to Aoust at a steady pace. Get there at approximately 11:10. Sat in café writing log. Played on a pool table.

Continued our walk through scorching heat and a large valley to a campsite near Saou. Camped in windy area. Good facilities (toilets and showers). Had very good food. Savoury risotto, liquid mousse and tea. Wrote log. Took things easy. Got to bed at 10:11.

On this day:

  • Car designer John De Lorean is acquitted of drug related charges
  • NASA launches Ampte space probe
  • Top Of The Pops is presented by Steve Wright and features Tears For Fears & Howard Jones

Looking back…

My diary says that we washed in the river – it would have been mountain fresh not to mention mountain cold. Brrr! As for drying the tent that was the dew that greeted us each morning. The rising sun soon dried things out.

After yesterday’s blister enforced break it was good to be back on the road again. Our early start meant that we could cover a fair distance before the searing heat made the business of hiking uncomfortable from late morning to mid afternoon. This stretch was a pleasure as we followed the scenic valley south through farming and orchard land. If I ever go back I want to try the wine!

The attractive valley road from Beaufort to Aoust

All of these years later I would like to belatedly apologise to the residents of Aoust for the despicable crime that I committed while caught short. With nowhere to go I utilised a dilapidated hut by the side of the road. Only upon exiting this disused shack did I notice the bus timetable on the wall… Merde!

Looking at google maps the route from Aouste to Saou followed a rocky mountain ridge that must have been spectacular, especially during the descent into the valley east of Aoust. It is typical that I would fail to mention this while proclaiming the food. Perhaps that is the French way.

Approaches to Saou…

Photo 1 - Saou mountain outcrop
Photo 1 – Saou mountain outcrop
The same view today on google street view
Modern re-creation in street view

It seems that much of our walking was along roads. This would have put more stress upon us than path walking but is unsurprising given that the mountainous terrain would be unlikely to offer many choices of passage.

My photo of the church square in Saou clearly illustrates the mountainous setting. This is one of many stop-offs that I would love to visit again.

Photo 2 - Eglise Square
Photo 2 – Eglise Square
They have cleared the ivy but nothing else has changed
Modern re-creation in street view

Where did we camp in Saou? It’s not clear but there are a couple of nearby camp sites and one thing’s for sure – the views would have been incredible. Here’s the vista from Camping La Graville near to Saou…

The great outdoors!

I’m glad I have photos to refer to because my nonchalant diary entry might as well have me tramping through Milton Keynes.

Map
In the absence of our original maps I have deduced the following route…

Distance walked: 15.0 miles (24.0 km)

 Key:
Start Beaufort sur-Gervanne
Via Aoust-sur-Sye
End Saou
Photo 1 Street view of Photo 1 – Saou mountain outcrop
Photo 2 Street view of Photo 2 – Eglise Square