Explorer Belt Day 5 – Saou to Dieulefit

In 1984 as a 15 year old Venture Scout I embarked on a 10 day Explorer Belt hike around the alpine region of South France. In this series of blog posts I revisit my diaries and retrace those footsteps…
My diary entry

Friday 17th August 1984

Awoke in a dry antless tent for once. Ryvita for breakfast after the usual washing ritual. Walked into Saou and took photo of church. Bought coke and cake. Walked 10km to Bourdeaux. Waited there for a bit and then walked a wicked 13km to Dieulfit in hot weather. Above 80 degrees as always. Exhausted so camped at a good site and watched nearby tennis at a tennis club. Very hot. Had ravioli, mash and French bread to eat. Was best meal yet.

Blisters accumulating on right heel. Walked around Dieulfit. Probably best day yet. Locals even play boules at night (saw some at 2am) for god knows what reason. Nice town, larger for the area in terms of population and size. Got to bed at 10:30

On this day:

  • Film Tightrope released, produced and starring Clint Eastwood

Looking back…

Did I really subsist on coke and cake?! I recall those iconic vintage tinted green curvy coke bottles that were sold all over the region out of red plastic crates. Back home it was all (now also classic) red and white cans.

Our food for the most part was dry in order to save weight. I have barely eaten ryvita since 1984 but it served the purpose at the time. Evening meals were mostly dry trekking packs which we poured into an aluminium pan and rehydrated with water before boiling over the meths fuelled trangia stove.

Some of the recipes sounded quite exotic and I remember thinking they tasted good although back then I also thought biscuits and coke tasted good. What an evening meal – carbs, carbs and more carbs! We were burning them off for sure.

It’s likely I was taking photos of churches in aid of one of our EB projects. In a sense that’s a shame because with a maximum of 36 photos to play with over my 3 weeks in France (!) it would have been better to capture more images of Andy, myself and the dramatic landscape. Anyway, here it is…

Photo 1 - Eglise St Roch
Photo 1 – Eglise St Roch
Rediscovering this photo on street-view was simple enough…
Modern re-creation in street view

It really was extremely hot and we were paying insufficient respect to the advice not to walk during the hottest part of the day. Was it any wonder we were both suffering with blisters? A 23km walk in relatively new walking boots, mostly along firm roads, carrying over-packed rucksacks was always likely to spell trouble in such circumstances.

Dieulefit was a dreamily pretty little town – the kind of place you might consider if looking to move and live in France. It is easy to bemoan a lack of photos or description in my accounts but we didn’t have that much time to explore each day, what with the walking, finding somewhere to camp, pitching up, cooking and washing up.

Ramshackle charm of Dieulefit

The tennis courts adjoined our campsite and it was fun watching club players compete to an entertaining standard. We saw lots of tennis courts during our hike. At least anything seems like lots when you almost never see one in Britain. Also there were numerous table tennis tables in people’s front yards.

Since I went to bed at 10:30 how did I know they were playing boules at 2am? Perhaps they were playing in the campsite and I visited the bathroom in the night? There are some mysteries that can’t be unravelled.

Map
In the absence of our original maps I have deduced the following route…

Distance walked: 14.1 miles (22.5 km)

 Key:
Start Saou
Via Bourdeaux
End Dieulefit
Photo 1 Street view of Photo 1 – Eglise St Roch
Tennis club Tennis Club du Jabron
Overnight Camping at Le Domaine des Grand Pres

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